LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011 Day 5

I have been courting my Mary Katrantzou fabric bag around with me like it's my new born child - must show it off but DON'T TOUCH. 

 

Up there with Erdem in my pattern Heaven, Katrantzou's collection is an explosion of heady folklore trips on heavily structured dresses. Some would not be out of place in the showroom of Versace Interiors. Or draped lithely across a Ming vase. Her background is heaving with interior textile design, and it seeps through her work like cognac through cream. 

Check out these mincing matryoshkas -

 

Mary Katrantzou A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mary Katrantzou A/W '11

Then along came the Schwab. Schwab-ster. Marios Schwab. Not to be confused with Schwepps. But Schwepps could do well from taking some bubble out of their drinks & follow the smooth Schwab road.

Not to say Schwab bubbles not. He is a subtle-bubbler. He is less flashy that most, his colours in this collection are more muted than most, his designs are less whimsical & fancy-pants. But he sticks to what he is good at - cut, fabric, wearable colour. His designs LAST. He trends not. He is just very good. Well done you, Schwabby. Schwab-dawg. Diggity.

 

Love the autumn colours
Marios Schwab A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather me up
Marios Schwab A/W/'11

More highlights... Roksanda Ilincic (who once took Mary Katrantzou under her wise wing) was giving a metallic rainbow show down a la a huge, gorgeous tin of Quality Streets. Yum yum. 

 

Orange Cream
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hazlenut Whirl
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dark Chocolate
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caramel Barrel
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Praline Whip
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coconut Delight
Roksanda Ilincic A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm pretty hungry now. Perhaps Quality Street might consider me for Marketing? 

Onwards.

 

Clements Ribeiro gave us palatial paisley, tie-dye & animal print, not to mention gothic crotchet, beading and lace. He went for the 'all-in' approach, and the results? Lovely. Often teetering on the brink of middle-class, middle-aged mum, but pulling it way back east with military jackets & Victoriana collaring.


 

Clements Ribeiro A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clements Ribeiro A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clements Ribeiro A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clements Ribeiro A/W '11

Amanda Wakely was all OVER fur, power shoulders, cuffs & work-no-play attitude. Hard nut. Je sais, je sais... if I dressed thus, perhaps I'd be a force to be reckoned with. OR, even better, I might just get cast in the remake of Working Girl. "Hello, my lovely agent...?"

 

Amanda Wakely A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Amanda Wakely A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Amanda Wakely A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And finally, Mr. Now, Ashish...

 

Ashish A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ashish A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ashish A/W '11

Ashish had 'I'm the next Viv' stamped all over his punky models. Tres Anglomania. With sequins. Moth-eaten knits. Spider webs. What a punky hunk. That's my Halloween outfit sorted...double-yes if I end up in the Scottish Highlands for some tartan trick-or-treating. Or would that be trick-och-treating? To bed, to bed...

...Hoots Mon.

A most pleasant day all round. Bravo!

I could really murder a cupcake..

I'd strangle the poor bugger.

Image courtesy of Poppy Seed Tree

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011 Day 4

Day 4. I'm excited. We've got Erdem and Paul Smith. I covet. If these two designers were boys who I fancied at school, I'd be torn. I'd snog both. At the same party. And I'd get away with it because they were in TOTALLY different cliques. 

Paul Smith is what I call Hoxton Cool. For people who are being cool, and don't they know it. Admittedly, this look often appeals to me. How ever much I scoff and scorn the Kool Rich Kidz of Shoreditch, with their thick rimmed specs and geek chic androgyny, pah I'm straight in Paul Smith the next day with my Bag for Life. 

Erdem. It's all about print and fabric. It's ART. Oh yes. It's Jackson Pollack, Turner and Monet all having a roll around with each other in the long grasses on a summer's day. ART. 

 

Peter Pilotto, Michael van der Ham, Mark Fast, Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane & Giles by Giles Deacon also made my grade. 

 

Especially loved Christopher Kane's flapper dress cut.

Peter Pilotto's collection was like a Rothko painting.

Michael van der Ham was all about COLOUR and VELVET. 

Mark Fast rocked out in black leather. 

Giles paraded 1950s Chanel-esque bunny girls. 

Burberry Prorsum had so many amazing coats I wanted to cry. 

 

These looks are HOT.

 

Peter Pilotto A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Michael van der Ham

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark Fast A/W '11

 

 

Christopher Kane A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christopher Kane A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Giles A/W '11

 

Giles A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burberry Prorsum A/W'11

 

Burberry Prorsum A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burberry Prorsum A/W '11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It looks set to be a good season for fashion. My senses are tingling. Day 5 approacheth... HEAVEN.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011 Day 3

Phewie! It's as if A/W '11 has fallen into a packet of Fizz Wiz popping candy. It's so SPARKY. 

Day 3 HAS to be my favourite so far. Today I'm thinking what I could WEAR. Actually step out of my front door and give it some ass shake down that street, homie. Past the flirtatious Italians in the Cafe. "Si Amigo, I'm working this, Gawd Daaaymn!" Yeah, you look, you stare, Luigi...whatever your name is. I'm straight off the runway and I'm SO NOW. 

Or maybe not. But I'd like to think that designers can create for the humble citizen, the observer - not follower - of fashion. Day 3: you have provided. 

Viv, you were, as usual, a dream. Her Red Label had it all. Signature tartan, beautifully cut ruche dresses, & land-girl utility. I would wear it all. Out. Right now. Pret à porter. Luigi, put my panini on the grill man.

Osman was stunning. Elegant, long, skimming gowns but so very contemporary. I heart this catwalk, the blue SMEEEAAR. Edgy. And that pink?? Get me my cheque book. It's hurting me. Give me. GIVE IT TO ME. (please) (for free)

Not normally my first choice, but Matthew Williamson was SMOKIN' LIKE A STOVE this season. Coats especially. And this flapper-esque blue dipped dress. Well. Matthew. You can come again.

Mulberry upped its game as well. Personally, I love floor-length. And this is definitely how to do it for Autumn/Winter. 

A small offering from Margaret Howell. Tapped into period minimalism. 'Brief Encounter' meets an archeological dig in 1940s Egypt. Done and done.

Love this Ann-Sofie Back Atelje dress. Shower chic.

 

A bit more lavish and late-night, Temperley London always is the place to look for wearable evening or cocktail looks. Alice Temperley is a waft of high-brow, highly feminine glamour. It was all very Valentino, and that is a very good thing.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011 Day 2

I was, sadly, a little disappointed by Day 2. 

House of Holland, which is always underlined in my 'things to love', upset, nay, confused me. Usually Mr Holland's eclectic mix of colour, pattern & daring hits my F-spot, a la his S/S '11 collection. Kerr-pow. A/W '11 kind of air kissed my tightie whiteies. 

Close. But no cigar. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I get the 'chanelling gran' look he was aiming for, but I'm sure my gran wore something similar to a Bad Taste party back in the 70s. 

There was also a lot of folky patchwork happening. 

I used to have a blanket like this when I was a child. 

Eventually, it ended up as the cat's chewed duvet. 

My cat died. 

Bad memories, difficult associations. 

It was never going to work out. Apologies Henry. 

 

Tabby, R.I.P xxx

However, sexy things coming from Louise Gray -och aye- and John Rocha -ni hao-.
 

 

Louise Gray had a super cool catwalk, very graphic. 
Electro-house rave. All OVER it.

 

 

 

Then John Rocha came over all Victoriana gothic. 
LOVE this look. 


I'm thinking a collaboration with Polly Morgan and some macabre (yet exquisite...& road-kill friendly) taxidermy? You're welcome.

 Polly Morgan, Systemic Inflammation (20100)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awesome.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011 Day 1

It has arrived. London Fashion Week 2011. 

Alexa Chung & Olivia Palermo are here. Therefore, by association, it's the place to be. Surely they are sponsored by the word 'fashion' these days? Let's look it up in my Collin's Dictionary...oh, no, they're not. Sorry girls. Don't worry, I'm certain there are other punters queueing up to back a fashion horse. Speaking of horses, where's Keira? No, stop it. Tsk, I'm naughty today. Clearly ovulating. I'll have a cup of calming tea. And 'scene'.

Some of my favourite looks from day 1. Stand-out collections from Maria Grachvogel & Paul Costello. They win the prize. A regal nod. *She nods, regally*. There, well done.

LOVE Paul Costelloe's avatar girls. They looked like virtual autumnal nymphs. And his looks are TOTALLY day-time, work-time wearable. Beam me up, Paulio...

 

 

Ok Miss Grachvogel. Let's talk about this demure, elfin lady. 

Does she not design as if she were an old humdinger, the kind of lady you might see on the tube whom you just KNOW was once draped in vintage fur, puffing a slim cigarette like a seductive steam train? (For 'Jules et Jim' lovers.) And you think "You GO old lady, you look a treat!". 

Then I remember that Maria Grachvogel is not an old lady. She was not alive in the early 30s. She is just a GENIUS. YES, GENIUS. 

I admit, her A/W '11 collection tugs on all my Hollywood Silver Screen heartstrings, and I am a mess. 

Modern mixed with good old-fashioned glamour. But so very simple. We like simple. 

Stockholm syndrome

I've caught Stockholm Syndrome.

Forgive my blog-sence. Absence with a 'blog' pun.

For my sins, I recently have abandoned you bloggers, without a sniff, a word, a priceless nugget of wisdom. I apologise. I blog-ogize.

Enough now.

 

I've missed you.

 

Anyway, after the madness I immediately fled overseas as all the best royals do. And good Lordy it was good. Lordy.

Sweden is one of my favourite places. If we're talking colours, it's a big, burning plate of green, blue, yellow, pink, with a few bears to boot. It reminds me of another of my bests, Oregon. They are the Jess Stams, the Angela Lindvalls of land-mass. They are just too beautiful. And it makes me want to cry/kiss them.

So Stockholm it was. You gotta go. We stayed in a Design Hotel next to the Moderna Museet. Every morning I breathed in cool. 

And it's Stockholm Fashion Week. Acne. Carin Wester. Rodebjer. Mini Market. 

 

Älskar.

Acne Resort 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whyred A/W 11-12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Acne Pre-Autumn 2011